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Custom A-Arm Conversion KIT
If you have a Beam Car, Rhino, Golf Cart or Mini Rail this is the best option to increase your front suspension without having to buy a new frame or pay an engineer to design it for you. This kit is by far our most popular.
Designed for the Do-it-yourselfer. This kit eliminates the guesswork! On a beam car you simple cut off the front clip and weld this front bulkhead on. Bolt together the front A-arms. A shade tree fabricator should be able to complete the job in one weekend.
Includes: A-Arm's, Spindles, All Heims, Jam Nuts, Mis-Alignment Spacers, Tie Rods, Rack and Pinion, Sub Assembly, boots, Fully Welded and Ready for Assembly. (Grade 8 Bolts not included)
For all of you that don't have the tools or the time to design and/or build your own a-arm front end suspension, or just want a proven front end to build off of, this kit is for you!
Our front steer a-arm front end kit has been tested and proven for 8 years on sand rails ranging from 2 & 4 seater v-6 powered, turbo Subaru, built air cooled to high performance motorcycle powered, mid engine as well as rear engine. This a-arm front end kit has been tested on the sand, dirt and on the street but is recommended for off-road use only.
Mild steel a-arms and cradle gives this kit real strength and durability plus the ability to bend and deform before failure where chromoly will fail before bending (brittle break).
We now offer boxed lower arms for an additional $500
Features and components:
- Jig welded
- .125 wall 1020 DOM
- Front suspension cradle with rack mount and double gusseted 3/16" thick tabs
- (4) Jig welded A-arms with welded lower shock mounts
- (2) Heavy duty jig welded Chromoly stub spindles (chromoly COMBO LINK stubs, you will need COMBO spindle wheels ) with 3 bolt base for front brakes if needed
- (16) - 5/8 x 5/8 chromoly lined rod ends (heim joints)
- (30) - high mis-alignment zink plated spacers
- (2) - reduction bushing for rack ends
- (6) - thick spacers for quick adjustments when minor adjustments are needed with out unbolting hiems
- (16) - zink plated jam nuts
- (2) DOM tie rods
- Billet heavy duty rack and pinion with 5/8 - 36 spline shaft
- Up to 24 of Wheel Travel
- Width 78" outside of wheel to wheel at full droop with 24" of wheel travel.
The cradle is 12 1/2" wide and 27" long (length can be shortened down 3" and height can be cut down 3" as well). Main cradle is 10" tall but can be cut down by 3". This kit has been designed to be welded on level with the chassis for beam conversions but if you're looking for a front end with 5 or 10 degrees of rake on the chassis specify when ordering and allow 1 additional week for delivery.
The kit is designed with 10 degrees of caster, 10 degrees of SAI ( king pin inclination ), develops a 3 degree progressive negative camber angle up to 24" wheel travel and 5 degrees of Ackerman angle for a rail with 106" wheel base and a front track width of 78" with spindle mount rims in the front. Note the ackerman angle will change on builds with a longer or shorter wheel base and wider or narrower track width accordingly, approximately 1 - 3 degrees. Once aligned properly this kit is good for 0 - 24" of wheel travel with no bump steer! If you are running 3x3 trailing arms you'll probably only use 18" to 20" of wheel travel. A 10" stroke shock will obtain this amount at or about 24 degrees of angle laying back.
When welding the cradle into your chassis center it in the front and set it level with the bottom of your frame. Make sure the cradle is level and squared to the existing frame.
TO ALIGN: level your chassis front to rear and side to side.
1. Screw the lower and upper a-arm heims all the way in and hang on the cradle.
2. Bolt tie rods and spindles on and center rack and pinion and clamp rack in centered position.
3. Set toe so spindles are roughly pointed straight.
4. Set camber at 0 to -1 degree ( same on both sides, neg camber is where the top of the spindle leans in towards the center of the chassis)
5. Set caster ( the top of the spindle leans towards the back of the chassis) at 8 to 10 degrees, same on both sides.
6. Re-check camber and adjust as needed then re-check caster as needed and repeat until both sides are set properly.
7. Set toe at 0 degrees or 1/8" toe in as desired.
8. After a few hard runs re-check alignment.
With a level chassis, proper alignment requires or is - 10 degrees of caster (top of spindle leaning back towards the rear of the rail), 0 - 1/2 degree of negative caster (top of the wheel leaning in towards the center of the rail) the same on both sides and 0 toe to 1/8" of toe in at full bump (with shocks fully extended).
Here's a couple links to some builds:
These are combo link spindles, so if you have spindle mount rims for stock vw spindles then they WON'T
swap over. If your wheels are 5 lug on a hub then you can buy a front brake
kit for the combo link and your rims will swap over. Nylock nuts are included with the spindles and the
spindles are drilled for a cotter pin so you can also run a castle nut, 3/4" fine thread so standard vw nuts won't work as they are
You will have to fabricate mounts to make this fit your buggy. Welding and Fabrication Skills are necessary to install this KIT.
Assembly Required. Welding Required, spindle nuts are not included.